iris: the GPU test's crash was the Vulkan loader unloading Mesa, not wgpu

`mask_sdf` SIGSEGVd after printing `test result: ok`, and the workaround
was to hand the device to the process with `mem::forget` on the reading
that "dropping a wgpu device on Venus segfaults". Every part of that
except the symptom was wrong.

`rigs/gpu-probe`'s new `teardown` bin is the experiment, one variable per
mode: the same open-and-close exits 0 on the main thread and SIGSEGVs on
a spawned one; it needs no GPU work and no device, only an instance; raw
`ash` does it with no wgpu involved at all; and keeping the instance
alive fixes it. Destroying the last VkInstance makes the loader dlclose
the ICD, and Mesa's ICD here registers a pthread_key_create destructor
into its own text without `-z nodelete`, so glibc calls it through
unmapped memory when the thread exits. libtest runs every #[test] on a
spawned thread, which is the whole reason this looked like a drop bug.
`VK_LOADER_DISABLE_DYNAMIC_LIBRARY_UNLOADING=1` confirms the mechanism.

So the fix is one `wgpu::Instance` for the process -- what wgpu asks for
anyway -- and the device, queue and everything else drop normally again.
The escape and its paragraph of reasons are gone.

Also: the machine-level graphics notes duplicated in docs/RUST.md,
run-headless.sh and two source comments now point at the
`this-machine-graphics` skill, which is the only copy.

Co-Authored-By: Claude Opus 5 <noreply@anthropic.com>

rigs/gpu-probe/src/bin/teardown.rs

@@ -0,0 +1,102 @@
+//! Why a GPU test segfaults *after* it has passed, and what stops it.
+//!
+//! Measured here 2026-09-08, on this VM's Venus adapter. Destroying the
+//! last `VkInstance` makes the Vulkan loader `dlclose` the ICD; Mesa's
+//! ICD (`/usr/lib/libvulkan_virtio.so`) registers a `pthread_key_create`
+//! destructor pointing into its own text and is not linked `-z nodelete`,
+//! so glibc calls that destructor through unmapped memory when the thread
+//! that used Vulkan exits. libtest runs every `#[test]` on a spawned
+//! thread, which is why it looked like "wgpu crashes on drop": the drop
+//! itself completes, and the crash lands as the thread unwinds.
+//!
+//! The four modes are the experiment, and each is one variable:
+//!
+//! | mode | what it does | 2026-09-08 |
+//! |---|---|---|
+//! | `main` | wgpu instance + device on the main thread, dropped | exits 0 |
+//! | `thread` | the same on a spawned thread | **SIGSEGV** |
+//! | `keep` | the same, but the instance is never dropped | exits 0 |
+//! | `raw` | raw Vulkan (`ash`), instance + device, spawned thread | **SIGSEGV** |
+//!
+//! `raw` is the one that says whose bug it is: no wgpu is involved, so
+//! there is nothing for wgpu or a caller to fix in its drop order. `keep`
+//! is the fix -- hold one `wgpu::Instance` for the process, which is what
+//! wgpu asks for anyway. `iris/tests/mask_sdf.rs` does exactly that.
+//!
+//! `VK_LOADER_DISABLE_DYNAMIC_LIBRARY_UNLOADING=1` also makes every mode
+//! exit cleanly, which is the confirmation that the unload is the
+//! mechanism -- but it is an environment variable every caller would have
+//! to remember, so it belongs in this comment rather than in a script.
+
+use ash::vk;
+use pollster::block_on;
+use wgpu::*;
+
+fn main() {
+    let mode = std::env::args().nth(1).unwrap_or_else(|| "thread".into());
+    let body = match mode.as_str() {
+        "main" => return wgpu_open_and_close(false),
+        "thread" => || wgpu_open_and_close(false),
+        "keep" => || wgpu_open_and_close(true),
+        "raw" => raw_vulkan_open_and_close,
+        other => panic!("unknown mode {other:?}: main | thread | keep | raw"),
+    };
+    std::thread::spawn(body).join().expect("the spawned thread");
+    // Not reached when the thread's exit takes the process with it.
+    eprintln!("thread joined");
+}
+
+/// A wgpu instance and device, opened and closed. `keep_instance` is the
+/// fix under test: everything else still drops normally.
+fn wgpu_open_and_close(keep_instance: bool) {
+    let instance = Instance::default();
+    let adapter =
+        block_on(instance.request_adapter(&RequestAdapterOptions::default())).expect("no adapter");
+    let info = adapter.get_info();
+    eprintln!(
+        "adapter: {} ({:?}, {})",
+        info.name, info.backend, info.driver
+    );
+    let (device, queue) =
+        block_on(adapter.request_device(&DeviceDescriptor::default())).expect("no device");
+
+    drop(queue);
+    drop(device);
+    drop(adapter);
+    if keep_instance {
+        std::mem::forget(instance);
+    } else {
+        drop(instance);
+    }
+    eprintln!("wgpu closed");
+}
+
+/// The same shape with no wgpu in it at all, which is what makes this a
+/// loader/driver bug rather than a wgpu one.
+fn raw_vulkan_open_and_close() {
+    unsafe {
+        let entry = ash::Entry::load().expect("vulkan loader");
+        let app = vk::ApplicationInfo::default().api_version(vk::make_api_version(0, 1, 1, 0));
+        let instance = entry
+            .create_instance(
+                &vk::InstanceCreateInfo::default().application_info(&app),
+                None,
+            )
+            .expect("instance");
+        let phys = instance.enumerate_physical_devices().expect("devices")[0];
+        let priorities = [1.0f32];
+        let queues = [vk::DeviceQueueCreateInfo::default()
+            .queue_family_index(0)
+            .queue_priorities(&priorities)];
+        let device = instance
+            .create_device(
+                phys,
+                &vk::DeviceCreateInfo::default().queue_create_infos(&queues),
+                None,
+            )
+            .expect("device");
+        device.destroy_device(None);
+        instance.destroy_instance(None);
+    }
+    eprintln!("raw vulkan closed");
+}